Sakagura - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - Mayfair, London

London is slightly starved for good Japanese/sushi alternatives to restaurants like Sumosan, Roka, Nobu and Zuma. However, the past few years have seen many compelling eateries popping up across the capital, the latest of which is Sakagura. Launched by the Japan Centre Group (Shoryu Ramen) and partnering with two-Michelin-starred sushi counter The Araki, Sakagura will home in on southern Japanese staples, prepared by Executive Chef Kanji Furukawa and Head Chef Jin Yackshin. 

Spread over the two floors, the restaurant offers intimate booths and a sake bar as well as an eleven seater kappo bar tucked underneath, which serves as a Japanese-style chef's table. We were struck by the seductive glamour of the restaurant. There was an abundance of brass, copper, dark woods and textured concretes spread throughout the dining room, creating a dimly lit ambience that immediately envelops you and your guest. Intimate tables are separated from one another with brass railings, and a soundtrack of house music played softly over the PA. 

We enjoyed a bottle of Gekkeikan sparkling sake which paired harmoniously with everything that followed. Sakagura focuses on Washoku, a traditional form of Japanese cuisine that prioritises the perfect mix of miso, rice and fish to use in every dish. This was evident in the yellow tail nigiri, which was ineffably fresh and well presented - as was the salmon and avocado roll (dusted with high-vis orange tobiko) and the dragon roll (served with grilled eel, cucumber, avocado and tobiko).

Of our favourite dishes, the Maguro Tartare was one of the top. Raw chopped tuna was served in a wooden 'fisherman's tray' with a seam of black caviar running through the middle. Wasabi, sesame, tobiko and sliced spring onions were served on the side, as well as a savoury sauce to mix in.  Nasu Dengaku was also incredibly good - chunky sections of aubergine were grilled with miso and were irresistibly sweet and soft. Miso black cod was filleted and fired to perfection, as delicious as always. 

Sakagura, nestled in the heart of Mayfair on Heddon Street, is certainly worth popping into if you are after top-level Japanese. 

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