Sophisticated Mayfair Restaurant offering Carefully-Selected British Cuisine
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : British
Opening Times : Mon-Sat: 12pm-2.30pm & 6.30pm-10.30pm
Closest Tube : Green Park
Flemings Hotel used to be one of our favourite redoubts when we worked out of Mayfair, the perfect place to repair to for an intimate meeting or after office martini with the team. However, we had no idea that the boutique hotel was going to receive the refurbishment that it did, and almost felt as if we were entering a new venture entirely when we revisited on a Tuesday evening. The jewel in the crown of this new effort is Shaun Rankin‘s restaurant Ormer, which shares a name with his Michelin-starred eatery in St Helier, Jersey. Rankin‘s mission is to bring his seasonable, sustainable and foraged ethos to the centre of London. Mission accomplished.
However, the dining room is a far cry from the rusticated environs of Rankin‘s Jersey restaurant. Designed by Tony Filmer, who also wears the mantle for refreshing the hotel‘s 129 rooms, the restaurant offers a masterclass in Art Deco opulence. It abounds in aged oak wood panelling, geometrically patterned marble flooring that is almost bafflingly baroque, and a bevy of forest green chairs and banquettes. There‘s a very cosy yet gilt ambience pervading the room. In short, it‘s very much Mayfair.
Upon taking our seats, we were met by Andreas Rosendal, a clearly competent somm who learned the trade working at some of Britain‘s most celebrated wine restaurants, including Sat Bains, Brasserie Chavot and The Glasshouse. After fielding a few questions he recommended the Circumstance Chenin Blanc, a South African white from the Stellenbosh that Andreas likened to Chardonnay on steroids. Indeed it was. Its brioche toastiness and milky oak proved dynamic across a number of dishes, including an amuse bouche of miniature lobster rolls topped with fennel.
We kicked things off with Rankin‘s signature dish, a ravioli filled with Jersey lobster, topped off with a coriander-rich, crispy shallot salad, and bathed in a crab and tomato bisque. It lived up to its reputation, ballasting the lobster with the savour of the bisque. Hand-dived scallops followed, complemented by confit chicken wings, creamed corn, basil and popcorn. It was a work of art paired with the Chenin Blanc.
Sea bass salt-baked in a pastry found itself in a Mediterranean melange of Parma ham, tomato fondue, black olive caramel, artichokes and saffron. However, this was slightly upstaged by a heavily marbled Iberico pork secreto, served in a miniature balti dish with calamari, chorizo chutney and Asian pear on the side. Desserts skew toward the traditional, and we were extremely happy with a dark chocolate brownie with popcorn, salted caramel and milk ice cream.
Ormer lives up to the Michelin-starred prowess of its elder sibling, with a healthy dollop of Mayfair chic stirred in for good measure. It‘s well worth a visit for those looking for a grown-up central London restaurant that is serious about its food.