Urban Coterie - Removed from website August 2021 (closed) - Shoreditch, London

London's skyscrapers are a sign of the times, an exercise in pure modernity. It wasn't too long ago when the tallest buildings in the area were brutalist council estates, but the steel and glass monoliths popping up across the city are now demonstrations in economic strength. M by Montcalm, a hotel just north of the Old Street Roundabout in the newly minted Tech City, is a testament to the power of London's start-up scene. Perched atop the M by Montcalm, you'll find Urban Coterie, a new restaurant launched by Searcys, which is quite unlike anything that Shoreditch has seen before.

Upon arriving in the hotel lobby, you must take an ear-popping ride up to the 17^th floor. The space is quite unique. Its huge floor-to-ceiling windows drink in vertiginous vistas of the roundabout and surrounds, with landmarks like St Paul's, Tower Bridge and the London Eye clearly visible. The spacious room exudes an aura of gentility. Tables are spaced widely apart, offering an intimate setting perfectly suited for dates. Designed by Tonik Associates, the dining room is pure elegance with some contemporary fixtures, including futuristic wall sconces and a trapezoidal chandelier that could have been lifted from a sci-fi flick. There's a state-of-the-art wine block where they keep an array of beautiful bottles.

Searcys drew on Anthony Demetre to create the menu, and he brings the same talent to the table which won him Michelin stars at Arbutus and Wild Honey. For this project he's enlisted the talents of head chef Killian Lynch, who demonstrates a nuanced understanding of seasonal British ingredients. We settled in at a corner table offering expansive panoramic views and ordered up an excellent Syrah produced by Yves Cuilleron.

To start, we ordered a fried Clarence Court duck egg perched atop a cuboid of black pudding, served aside a nest of rainbow kale. Once ruptured, the yolk creeped glacially across the plate. It was rich and unctuous, probably more suited to hungry diners. Burrata on the other hand, dotted with razor-thin slices of chilled Comice pear and toasted hazelnuts, was its diametrical opposite. Sprinkled with fresh olive oil and crushed black pepper, it was light and buoyant - a much more sophisticated dish.

A neatly filleted section of Iberico pork shoulder was prepared as it should be: pink. Served with artichoke hearts and pillowy pan-seared black olive gnocchi, it packed in deep flavour nothing short of seductive. Slow-cooked, grilled beef followed suit, strung with grilled onions and gremolata, it was the best rump cut we've had in years. For dessert we enjoyed a lovely Valrhona chocolate tart with an orb of vanilla gelato. As with everything else, it hit its mark.

Urban Coterie is really a diamond in the rough. It offers views that you don't often have in London, excellent food and drink, and an elegant setting at a very reasonable price. Highly recommend!

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