Ember Yard - Soho, London

Salt Yard opened its doors in Fitzrovia way back in 2006, and since then the group has consistently wowed Londoners with each of their newest openings. As it turns out, Ember Yard follows suit, building on the strength of its predecessors (no need to panic, the courgette flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro make an appearance on the menu) while forging its own identity and path. In this case, the forge is the charcoal grill, with almost every single dish incorporating smoke into its savour.

The dining room is dimly lit and seductive, earthy and organic, with dark woods, brass and copper, crystal pendant lighting, autumnal paintings and an open kitchen and bar hardwiring the space with energy and resonance. Drinks, like everything else at Ember Yard, are smoky and a bit sultry. The Bloody Mary is reimagined with gazpacho, tabasco and black smoked salt. The Sazerac combines smoked sherry brandy, peychaud bitters and anise perfume and creates a symbiosis between smoky and sweet. One standout from the menu was the lardo-lashed burger, topped with creamy Idiazabal cheese and chorizo ketchup - a creation inspired by the prized Opera Tavern slider. However, this was topped by a wood roasted gratin of root vegetables, smoked risotto and Idiazabal cream. Unctuous, sumptuous and a bit illicit in its richness. Similarly autumnal, charred cuttlefish with pumpkin and nduja hit its mark, as did a salty salt marsh lamb with roasted aubergine and salsa verde. Make sure to save space for dessert - a warm chocolate ganache salted caramel ice cream was the perfect punctuation to the meal, particularly with a glass of Frangelico to booze it up.

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