Kaspar's Seafood Bar & Grill, London

In every city there's an institution so deeply established and universally regarded that it has become interwoven with the warp and weft of the city itself. For London, that institution is arguably the Savoy Hotel. A favourite amongst many a historic personage, the Savoy is responsible for culinary creations including the Peach Melba and the Arnold Bennett omelette, as well as various political intrigues and personal entanglements.

Kaspar's Seafood and Grill, the newest addition to the hotel's collection of bars and restaurants, borrows its name from a feline statue brought in to fill out tables of thirteen as the fourteenth guest, and defray superstitious anxieties following the mysterious demise of South African diamond magnate Woolf Joel. The eponymous cat Kaspar became a favourite amongst the luminaries dining in The Savoy, particularly Winston Churchill, who requested his company on every occasion.  

The dining room channels the opulence of the early 20th century with a prepossessing crustacea bar with smart peppermint green leather seating, Murano columns and elegant pendant lighting. Teal swirl carpeting draws inspiration from the stunning views of the Thames snatched from the room, while smoky mirrors, brass railings and a silver leafed ceiling imbue Kaspar's with a sense of drama.

Head chef James Pare has created an inclusive all-day menu in the manner of The Wolseley and Balthazar, however he focuses more on classically British preparations of seafood than French. The menu is divided into starters, selections from the fish bar, main courses, grills, salads and desserts, with an extensive breakfast menu to boot. 

Traditional plates like poached lobster with garlic mayonnaise or Dover sole with brown butter caper sauce feature heavily on the menu, however Pare also demonstrates a playful touch, exhibited in dishes like Kaspar's smoked salmon sausage with apple sauerkraut and horseradish sauce or monkfish kebabs with preserved lemon. The sea bream is remarkably good, underpinned with a rich bouillabaisse and creamy fennel gratin. Dessert is an elegant affair. The apple crème brulée was creamy, crunchy and flavourful, or opt for the Peach Melba, which was originally created by Escoffier at the Savoy more than a century ago.

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