Babbo - Mayfair, London

Italians have been living well for thousands of years and this comes across at Babbo, one of Mayfair's most sumptuous Mediterranean-inspired eateries. Nestled on Albemarle Street, which is quickly becoming a foodie nexus, Babbo has been one of the more popular destinations for Mayfair's swanky set since it launched in 2009, and looks well-poised to draw a well-to-do retinue for perpetuity. 

With the kitchens helmed by executive chef Carlo Scotto, Babbo translates from Italian to English as 'daddy' and certainly exudes a bit of the warm hearted paternalism for which the country is renowned. Perhaps for this reason, it tends to be particularly appealing to those looking for a traditional ambience, with many of the diners repairing from their nearby offices for a helping of lux hospitality. 

This scene is fostered by Babbo's design, with black-and-white photographs of fathers and sons, a sleek tobacco-hued colour palette, exposed brickwork and vintage chandeliers. There's a large private dining room on the top floor which caters for fourteen, but otherwise Babbo lends itself to larger parties, with a long space tucked away in the back of the restaurant behind a spiral staircase lined with wine crates.

Authenticity is obviously important at Babbo, as is provenance, which is why the kitchens have top quality artisanal ingredients flown in fresh from Puglia twice a week - ingredients that are central to creating traditional Tuscan with a twist. It's the food that imparts warmth beyond all else, with amazing flavours coalescing to deliver dishes that stir the emotions. 

We started with calamari fritti e carciofi croccanti, shaved artichoke hearts fried until they had the texture of crisps - they were delicious and homey, served in a wooden bowl. This however, was quite handily overshadowed by a bresaola of Chianina beef, served atop a cutting board. The portions were very generous and the meat so delicate that it atomised atop the tongue.

For mains we opted for roast duck with escarole, crowns and beetroot puree, which was tenderly prepared and evinced a powerful flavour. However, our favourite main was the monkfish, enwreathed in a porcini mushroom crust and served with a polenta purée and autumn vegetables. For dessert a heaven chocolate tronchetto with espresso ice cream rounded things off nicely.

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