Bardo - St James, London

Luca Maggiora has been one of the defining names in London's nightlife scene and we were beyond intrigued when we heard he would be bringing his impresario's touch to One Pall Mall with the opening of Italian restaurant Bardo St James. With a stage and live music very much the focal point of the venue, it elegantly exudes a vibey yet intimate and even sultry atmosphere, with both top-shelf dining and entertainment.The restaurant shares common DNA with a private members' club without the fees. People make an effort to dress up and there is a smart dress code (eg no t-shirts without jacket, but smart jeans are allowed). There's also a very cool private members lounge bar hidden away behind the restaurant. (We can arrange access on request for Red Members).

Bardo stretches over 11,000 square feet and is as ambitious as it is expansive, comprising of a large dining room with open-plan kitchen, whisky tasting room, walk-in wine cellar with an enviably extensive selection, private dining room, secluded booths that overlook the main space, beautifully appointed long bar, and that private lounge we mentioned earlier. It's the perfect setting to enjoy Graziano Bonacina's enlightened Italian cooking. The chef formerly carved a name for himself at Sette at The Bulgari Hotel. 

We kicked our meal off with a classically creamy burrata, offset with a buoyantly sweet fig puree, bitter pickled radicchio, Chioggia beetroot and white balsamic, as well as a starter of sumptuous polenta with a fricassée of truffle mushroom. We then followed these up with some excellent pasta dishes: a wintry tagliolini with short rib of beef and bone marrow ragú and a summery lobster tagliatelle in crazy water with Calabrian chilli and black crumble. We wrapped up with desserts such as the chocolate fondant with fior di latte ice cream and salted caramel sauce.

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