Lots of fresh crab in the heart of Marylebone
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : Seafood
Address : 92 Wigmore St, Marylebone, London , W1U 3RD, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.fancycrab.co.uk/
Opening Times : Mon-Sun: 12pm-11pm
Closest Tube : Oxford Circus
Over the past decade, London fell in love with the single-item menu, but for the most part it has been confined to food on the less glamorous side of the strata - burgers, ramen and the like. However, that seems to be shifting ever so slightly to more refined ingredients, and none so much as Fancy Crab on Wigmore Street in Marylebone where red king crab has been put in the limelight. Focusing on provenance, Fancy Crab has nailed down an ethically sustainable supply line from the Barents Sea to London, with the crabs cooked in seawater aboard the fishing rig to preserve the delicate flavour of the meat and ensure the crab doesn‘t get stressed.
The dining room at Fancy Crab is both sprawling and sophisticated, spread over two floors. On the ground floor the centrepiece is without question the crustacean bar, where giant red king crabs repose on resplendent beds of ice. Throughout the room there‘s an interesting design trope in which huge paintings in classical formats have been spliced with imagery of king crabs, with a giant pointillist-styled crab stretching across the whitewashed interior wall, ridden by an elegant sylph. We grabbed a comfy booth with slick cobalt banquettes and ordered a bottle of Larry Cherubino Apostrophe, an interesting Australian blend of riesling, gewürztraminer, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Our meal kicked off with a demi-serving of king crab bisque, which was everything it should be, just the right amount of robust crustacean flavour levelled out to a delectable smoothness. Our only gripe was that there wasn‘t a bit more of it - we would happily have despatched an entire gallon. This was followed by king crab bites which nestled opaline flesh amongst a crispy puff pastry. A tempura treatment of the crusher claw saw the carapace given a crispy batter with Old Bay-style seasoning and flesh you had to tease out.
Then came the main event: the crab itself. The portion given to us was named the merus, which is ostensibly the best part of the animal - the ‘thigh‘ of the leg, respectively. It arrived at the table baked with lashings of garlic. We finished up the meal with two delicious desserts. A chocolate fondant was delivered perfectly, its molten centre coagulating around a beautiful dollop of salt caramel ice cream. The king crab cheesecake didn‘t contain any of the crustacean, but was instead crafted to resemble one, and was a light and airy rendition of the dish.