High-end modern European cuisine served at The Lanesborough
Category : Restaurant
| Cuisine : Modern European
Address : Hyde Park Corner, Knightsbridge & Belgravia, London, SW1X 7TA, UNITED KINGDOM - Directions
Web : www.lanesborough.com/eng/restaurant-bars/celeste/
Opening Times : Mon-Sun: 7am-10.30pm
Closest Tube : Hyde Park Corner
The Lanesborough Hotel has always been world class, but its extensive 2015 refurbishment elevated it to the stratosphere, which is perhaps why the room has such a sparkling, gilded look - as if it‘d been plucked from the firmament. As such, it deserved a chef that was similarly starry, and who better than Eric Frechon, who oversees the restaurant at The Lanesborough‘s sister property, Le Bristol in Paris - where he presides over three Michelin stars at flagship restaurant Epicure. Frechon in turn chose Florian Favario to helm the kitchen - formerly senior sous chef at Epicure for four years and erstwhile chef at two-star Chateau Cordeillan-Bages in Bordeaux for seven years.
The dining room has a pedigree to match its chefs and is as brightly appointed as the heavens. Natural light streams in from a stunning domed glass ceiling beyond three vast chandeliers to illuminate neoclassical bas-relief friezes and capacious royal blue sofas. Where they aren‘t relieved by Greco-Roman columns, the walls have been painted the same light powder blue and are adorned with various baubles and objets d‘art. We cracked an ambrosial bottle of Joseph Mellot Sancerre and embarked upon an engaging culinary odyssey.
The meal began with the blue lobster and smashed avocado, which arrived with a glass teapot brimming with a gazpacho poured over the pearly chunks of crustacean. A crispy tendril of octopus arrived at the table with a seasonal vegetable confit and a tandoori mayonnaise. For mains we enjoyed Home County lamb chops which were perfectly pan-seared a blushing medium rare. These were accompanied by courgette couscous and a charcoal-fired red pepper coulis. Perhaps most noticeably, a zucchini flower was imbued with savoury minced lamb.
Halibut was served with an ebullient Green Zebra tomato tartare which really raised the flavour profile of the fish, as well as lemon thyme, Sicilian pistachios and green olives. For dessert we enjoyed an amazing carapace of chocolate impregnated with caramelized cashew nut praline and Guanaja chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream on the side. The ‘Strawberry‘ option topped a -196° frosted lemon thyme meringue with strawberries and marshmallow in a nouvelle cuisine take on the Eton Mess.
Céleste at The Lanesborough is the consummate special occasion restaurant. Well-suited for birthdays, anniversaries or sealing the deal in their fourteen-person private dining room. Oh, and there‘s one more star that we hadn‘t mentioned. A Michelin star - which was earned in 2016.